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Professional / Fashion, Textile and Jewellery Design

Cold Intimate Intimacy

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Shortlisted
Medium or Format: Senior clothing series (in kind)
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Dimensions and/or Technical Information: 43 pieces of physical clothing
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DEFICELER "COLD INTIMACY" EXHIBIT LIST

This list presents the "cold intimate" series complete 43 pieces of clothing in kind.

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DEFICELER SS25 LOOKBOOK 06

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DEFICELER SS25 LOOKBOOK 08

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DEFICELER SS25 LOOKBOOK 14

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DEFICELER SS25 LOOKBOOK 25

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DEFICELER SS25 LOOKBOOK 28

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DEFICELER unbundling concept short film "the birth of unbundling"

This short film tells the story of the birth of the brand DEFICELER.

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DEFICELER SS25 LOOKBOOK

This catalog shows how the "Cold Intimacy" series uses traditional Bouyei hand-woven fabrics and graphics to integrate into everyday life.

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Short Description of Work

"Imperfection brings us closer together. 」 The Chinese designer brand that composes a new ethnography with fashion is DEFICELER untied. The Spring and Summer 2025 series "Cold Intimacy" explains the new meaning of Buyi hand-woven fabrics in the contemporary era.

The hand-woven checkered and striped cloth, as the identity of the Buyi ethnic group, continues the close social relations within the ethnic group and is a metaphor of the "generative meaning of existence" shared by the Buyi women. Today, in the Buyi villages, women still weave cloth, conveying the meaning of this personal life in the flood of the industrial age, which advocates efficiency and high standardization.

DEFICELER Unbinding From the sociological point of view in Eva Eros's book Cold Intimacy, under the phenomenon of emotional alienation of modern people brought about by efficient and standardized modern technology and techniques, the Bouyei handwoven cloth is regarded as a kind of intimate social connection and a metaphor that people give meaning to their own existence beyond the common standards of the times. This series combines simple and timeless geometric figures into plaid and stripes, and the "imperfect handmade fabric" presents a new style close to urban life.

* All checkered and striped fabrics used in this series are traditional hand-woven fabrics of Buyi nationality. All processes (such as matchmaking, threading, buckling, knitting, weaving, etc.) are completed in the hand-woven workshop of DEFICELER untying located in Ceheng County, Qianxinan Prefecture, Guizhou Province.

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Tell us about your creative practice, and how your work engages with Chinese design, society, environment or culture.

The birth of DEFICELER untying is a story of "discovering Narnia in the depths of the wardrobe": the founder Xu Xingyuan graduated from Parsons School of Design in New York, and after returning to China, he opened the world of ethnic patterns in the southwest during a trip to Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan. In Xu Xingyuan's fashion practice, the vitality of southwest ethnic aesthetics proves that they are more than a period of history, a region and an impression. Xu Xingyuan regards "Narnia" as a guide, and believes that modern people and traditional cultural heritage should not stop at the relationship between standing in the museum, eyes and cultural relics-creators need to go deep to obtain a new world.

In 2022, the fashion brand DEFICELER was untied and founded in Shanghai. With the determination to cut off the inherent perception of "national style", it is committed to going deep into the aesthetic logic of dyeing, weaving and embroidering of ethnic minorities in southwest China. With a conscious awareness of modernity, it will take traditional handicrafts away from the geo-cultural context and re-view them, and write a new ethnography by real urban consumers. So far, DEFICELER has cooperated deeply with local Miao and Buyi craftsmanship people in Guizhou to launch three fashion series, endowing traditional handicrafts with new style concepts and commercial value.

In 2024, the DEFICELER untied and formally established a hand weaving workshop in Ceheng County, Qianxinan Prefecture, Guizhou Province, to provide a bright, spacious, hygienic working environment and flexible and friendly working mechanism for local Buyi women. At present, there are more than 30 cooperative weavers. The workshop will continue to systematically sort out the traditional hand-woven fabrics of southwest ethnic minorities, improve the materials and color matching, and enhance the applicability of traditional patterns in modern life.

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DEFICELER unbinding
Shanghai

Chinese designer brand DEFICELER Untie was founded in 2022, defining post-modern wardrobe with modern national style items. DEFICELER is French for "to untie the string". DEFICELER untying is a kind of post-modernism-untying the popular minimalist look and releasing the rich local cultural heritage of southwest China. DEFICELER unbundling offers a fresh perspective on southwestern national fashion-a chance to eliminate exclusivity and seize cross-cultural consensus.

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