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Professional / Fashion, Textile and Jewellery Design

katliax Kannian "Night" Dong Cloth Series

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Medium or Format: Dong cloth 100% cotton
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Dimensions and/or Technical Information: Handmade cloth in Qiandongnan region
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katliax Kannian "Night" Dong Cloth Series Dong Cloth Suits

"Night" Dong cloth series, the suit is made of Dong cloth, which is sewn by hand in cooperation with Miao embroidery women. The lining cloth is 100% linen. The pattern retains the shoulder drop effect of men, slightly narrower straight body pattern, and the same style for men and women. The red lining cloth is inspired by Miao clothing making habits, that is, adding color embroidery and bottom sticker decoration to the dark Dong cloth fabric, and the color matching effect is simple and crisp.

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katliax Kannian Dong Cloth Series Dong Cloth Coat

"Night" Dong cloth series trench coat, a classic trench coat version, is combined with Dong cloth to restore the waterproof and wind-resistant functionality of the trench coat category itself. The reflective texture of the cloth surface and the warmth of the metal buckle and the hand-sewn embroidery of Miaozhai are in great contrast.

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katliax Kannian Dong Cloth Series Dong Cloth Jacket

"Night" Dong cloth series jacket, the combination of jacket shape and red Dong cloth, has a loose box shape, highlighting the warmth of hand-made sewing and the gorgeous luster of red Dong cloth itself.

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katliax Kannian Dong Cloth Series Dong Cloth Long Shirt

"Night" Dong Cloth Series Ancient Coin Hand-stitched Dong Cloth Seedling Dress Long Shirt, the style is a one-piece cloak suit version, the hem at the top and back is naturally opened in an A- shaped shape, and the side contour is smooth like a waterfall. Under the broad and shiny material of Dong Cloth, the traditional version shows a free and easy feeling. The button has a dragon pattern on the front. The whole piece is modified with 999 pure silver ancient coin, the tassel decoration on the side is inspired by the details of the folk bellyband, echoing the overall color.

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katliax Kannian Dong Cloth Series Dong Cloth Blouse

"Night" Dong cloth series, short shirts, are made of Dong cloth. The style is cut short on the basic Chinese version, sewn by hand, and sewn by Guizhou non-heritage embroidery women.

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katliax Kannian Dong Cloth Series Field Investigation

Guizhou Qiandongnan material selection, field investigation.

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Short Description of Work

Katliax Kannian "Night" Dong Cloth Series, which uses non-heritage Dong Cloth from Qiandongnan as clothing material, and hand-sews a series of garments in cooperation with Guizhou Xiuniang.
Dong cloth is a handmade cloth used by Dong, Miao and other ethnic minorities in southeast Guizhou to make national costumes. It emits sparkling luster, also known as bright cloth, because the cloth is coated with egg white. In the concept of Dong people, black represents the universe and women, while egg white represents men. Repeated beating of egg white reflects the natural view of "harmony between man and nature" of Miao and Dong people.

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Tell us about your creative practice, and how your work engages with Chinese design, society, environment or culture.

Dong Cloth-Modern Expression of Traditional Craft
As a traditional cloth in southeastern Guizhou, Dong cloth is made in a complete process chain of "planting cotton-spinning-hand weaving-plant dyeing-sewing of ready-made clothes". Each link requires dozens of fine polishing procedures by craftsmen, and finally forms a unique "stiff, wear-resistant, waterproof, wind-resistant, luster and restrained" cloth suitable for hiking in mountain forests.
In the "night" dong cloth series, the hand-beating texture and unique luster of dong cloth are the design core. the design shows the broad and glossy style characteristics of dong cloth through tailoring design. dong cloth is sewn by hand in cooperation with Miao embroidery niang. dong cloth is sewn by hand in cooperation with the inheritors of dong cloth in southeast Guizhou, using "order-based production" and collecting materials from door to door to door to create income for local craftsmen. at the same time, the design is a single item for daily wear in the city, and then publicized through the way of artist cooperation exhibition. This series of actions reconstructs cultural identity, promotes the transformation of intangible cultural heritage from "museum exhibits" to "life aesthetics", and enhances young consumers' sense of identity with traditional culture.
Dong cloth is not only a kind of material, but katliax Kannian integrates the natural view of "all things have spirit" of Dong nationality into the design. The "metallic luster" formed by repeated beating of Dong cloth is metaphorized as "the precipitation of time and the trace of handwork", which expresses the value pursuit of "slow craft" and "eternity". Its value lies in using design as the medium to awaken the spiritual resonance behind the material, the ultimate realization of cultural heritage and innovation of the times of symbiosis.

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Yang Jun
Shenzhen City, Guangdong Province

Katliax Kannian, hand-made craftsman brand. "Katliax" is written in Miao. "Kannian" \kali:a \is transliterated in Miao language, meaning magpie.
During a trip to Guizhou in 2019, Yang Jun became acquainted with the non-genetic inheritor of Miao Xiuniang and began to study Miao culture. Yang Jun resigned as director of Shenzhen in 2021 and stationed in Miao Village. When he opened a Miao language textbook, he asked: "How do you read Katliax and what does it mean?", she read "\kali:a\, is an auspicious bird-magpie, meaning that good things happen and good things begin."

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