As much as my artistic work is inspired by tea silk, which is one of my preferred materials for clothing, this time my artistic work is inspiring the collection I am presenting here. Pushing the traditional dyeing process of Xiangyun Sha to its extrem, I want to show the beauty of this dyeing technique without involvement of any chemicals, how rich the hues of black, russets and browns are.
For the presented pieces of this collection I applied the process of „tanning silk“ to clothing, which makes it a garment, and also a sculpture. The tanned silk combines fragility and strength.
The juice of a yam variety, dioscorea cirrhosa, to me, is not just a dye but more like “glaze” or “varnish” that can sculpt silk. By brushing the silk fabric with the juice dozens or even hundreds of times, combined with the energy of the sun and the inherent sheen of silk, the fabric gradually reveals a metallic luster. The silk fabric breathes, expanding and contracting during the dyeing and drying. The juice is “absorbed”. The material itself transforms into a living entity. Sunshine is essential to the dyeing process; therefore it is mentioned as an ingredient.
Even though the pieces look like sculptures, they are made to be worn and constructed like garments for which I am using more conventional materials.

As much as my artistic work is inspired by tea silk, which is one of my preferred materials for clothing, this time my artistic work is inspiring the collection I am presenting here. Pushing the traditional dyeing process of Xiangyun Sha to its extrem, I want to show the beauty of this dyeing technique without involvement of any chemicals, how rich the hues of black, russets and browns are.
For the presented pieces of this collection I applied the process of „tanning silk“ to clothing, which makes it a garment, and also a sculpture. The tanned silk combines fragility and strength.
The juice of a yam variety, dioscorea cirrhosa, to me, is not just a dye but more like “glaze” or “varnish” that can sculpt silk. By brushing the silk fabric with the juice dozens or even hundreds of times, combined with the energy of the sun and the inherent sheen of silk, the fabric gradually reveals a metallic luster. The silk fabric breathes, expanding and contracting during the dyeing and drying. The juice is “absorbed”. The material itself transforms into a living entity. Sunshine is essential to the dyeing process; therefore it is mentioned as an ingredient.
Even though the pieces look like sculptures, they are made to be worn and constructed like garments for which I am using more conventional materials.

For already over 20 years the traditional silk fabric Xiangyun Sha (literally translated as “Fragrant Cloud gauze”), the core material of my collections. Its all-natural dyeing process from Guangdong province represents for me the togetherness of man and nature. This fascinating material became “my teacher” in many ways: respect for what nature has given us as well as for the human work, but also it gives me endless inspiration for the elaboration of different finishings to show the beauty of the double-faced feature of this papyrus like silk material. It changed my idea: instead of being a designer or a creator who uses the material to serve his design ideas, I became more a kind of servant of the material who listens to the material how to transform it into wearables to reveal its inherent beauty. This respect is so important in Chinese philosophy.
However, under commercialization and the “intangible cultural heritage” label, the purity of the natural dyeing process of Xiangyun Sha is now compromised and mostly done in an artificial way, which deeply saddened me. Therefore, I hope that through my work, people not only learn about Xiangyun Sha but truly understand it and appreciate the authentic beauty inherent inside of it.
Our collections are crafted by our small team of skilled craftsmen in our workshop in the center of Beijing, most of them working 10 or even 20 years with us. According to the Chinese garment making tradition, the character and the width of every single fabric is guiding my designs, which avoids waste. Rectangular cuts aligned with the direction of the fibers are my signature. Thus, I do not merely design garments, I sculpt fabric.

For already over 20 years the traditional silk fabric Xiangyun Sha (literally translated as “Fragrant Cloud gauze”), the core material of my collections. Its all-natural dyeing process from Guangdong province represents for me the togetherness of man and nature. This fascinating material became “my teacher” in many ways: respect for what nature has given us as well as for the human work, but also it gives me endless inspiration for the elaboration of different finishings to show the beauty of the double-faced feature of this papyrus like silk material. It changed my idea: instead of being a designer or a creator who uses the material to serve his design ideas, I became more a kind of servant of the material who listens to the material how to transform it into wearables to reveal its inherent beauty. This respect is so important in Chinese philosophy.
However, under commercialization and the “intangible cultural heritage” label, the purity of the natural dyeing process of Xiangyun Sha is now compromised and mostly done in an artificial way, which deeply saddened me. Therefore, I hope that through my work, people not only learn about Xiangyun Sha but truly understand it and appreciate the authentic beauty inherent inside of it.
Our collections are crafted by our small team of skilled craftsmen in our workshop in the center of Beijing, most of them working 10 or even 20 years with us. According to the Chinese garment making tradition, the character and the width of every single fabric is guiding my designs, which avoids waste. Rectangular cuts aligned with the direction of the fibers are my signature. Thus, I do not merely design garments, I sculpt fabric.

Kathrin von Rechenberg is a German couturier and textile artist, living and working in Beijing since 2000. Kathrin, trained as a tailor, graduated from “L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne” and worked several years for renowned Couture Houses in Paris before she moved to China to dedicate her work to Xiangyunsha and founding her art couture brand „rechenberg“. Influenced by the traditional and natural dyeing method of Xiangyunsha, she is reflecting the relationship between man and nature. Besides conceiving and making of her clothing collections with her team of skilled artisans in her Beijing workshop, she is exhibiting her art work in national and international art exhibitions. For her over 20 years of dedication to the work with Xiangyunsha she is awarded the title of "Friendship Ambassador of Chinese Textile Heritage" by the China national Textile association.

Kathrin von Rechenberg is a German couturier and textile artist, living and working in Beijing since 2000. Kathrin, trained as a tailor, graduated from “L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne” and worked several years for renowned Couture Houses in Paris before she moved to China to dedicate her work to Xiangyunsha and founding her art couture brand „rechenberg“. Influenced by the traditional and natural dyeing method of Xiangyunsha, she is reflecting the relationship between man and nature. Besides conceiving and making of her clothing collections with her team of skilled artisans in her Beijing workshop, she is exhibiting her art work in national and international art exhibitions. For her over 20 years of dedication to the work with Xiangyunsha she is awarded the title of "Friendship Ambassador of Chinese Textile Heritage" by the China national Textile association.